6/20/04 - Trip to Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea (The White Mountain of Hawaii) rises 13,790
feet above sea level.  It is the second largest volcano on the
island of Hawaii (after Mauna Loa).  It is about 1 million
years old and is considered sacred to the native Hawaiians.
Its last eruption was about 4500 years ago.

Because of its elevation, you’ll find a snowcap during the
winter months.  This is quite a treat for the locals.  We’ve
heard of folks taking trucks to the slopes, filling the beds
with snow and bringing the powder home in time to build
snowmen!

Mauna Kea as seen from the farm

In addition to snow, its elevation is ideal for stargazing.  The thin air and cloud-free sky creates such an ideal
environment that several observatories have been constructed at its top.  We learned that time on the
telescope is at a premium and scientists compete for time to explore the heavens.  

Several  weeks ago, at a friend’s invitation, we trekked up the White Mountain.  Here is a recap of our
adventure. We took this trip with our buddies Paul and Judi.  Our guides were Bob and his wife Cindy. Bob
works at he Subaru observatory.  One of his work privileges and pleasures is the opportunity to take friends
into the observatory for a close-up tour!

We met at the Subaru building (no relation to the automobile manufacturer) early one Saturday. After
comparing our goodies (food, drinks, warm clothing), we packed up Bob’s SUV and started the trek.

Our ascent to Mauna Kea started out on Kaumana Drive in Hilo.  This eventually snaked its way to Saddle
Road, a roadway that transects the island.  This road’s name probably came from the fact that is straddles 2
large volcanoes – Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa.  Mauna Loa, by the way, erupts every few to scores of years!

The drive up Saddle road took us through very diverse landscape.  Eventually we ended up at the intersection
that would take us to the top.  After a short drive we ended up at a ranger station.  This is where visitors get a
chance to acclimated to the thin mountain air.  We spent about an hour there, viewing the exhibit and visiting
some rare plants.  The silver sword plants apparently grow at high elevations.  They appear to thrive here and
on the Maui volcano (Haleakala).  A spike of flowers that appears after 10 years accents its beautiful silver
foliage.  It then dies and makes way for the next generation.

Are we really headed to
the summit?

Whoopie!

Silver sword plant.  

After the break, we started again for the top.  Kicking the vehicle into 4x4 mode, we carefully scaled the
mountain.  After a drive punctuated by ooohs and ahhhs brought on by the views, we reached the moon… er…
the top of the mountain.  The landscape up there is surreal – lots of cinder with little apparent plant life and
several towering observatories.  The air is very thin.  We experienced mild hallucinations and gasp for air.  
Bob taught us ‘power breathing’ – exhaling through pursed lips to increase the pressure in the lungs.  This
allowed to get more oxygen flowing.

We made our way to Bob’s observatory – the Subaru.  After a brief pause in the break room and, for some of
us, oxygen, we got our hard hats on and started the tour.  We visited several areas of the observatory - the
telescope, several huge (and expensive) components, and maintenance areas.

Throughout the tour, Bob  educated us about the observatory.  Interesting tidbits:

- The mirror is huge - a giant slab of precision glass covered in a thin film of aluminum
- The mirror is about 8 meters in diameter!
- The mirror gets a bath in acid periodically to wash off the aluminum and as new coating is added.
- The mirror has some chips - from falling tools (yikes!)
- The amount of aluminum covering the dish is equivalent to that found in 2 soda cans
- The actual observation and research takes place remotely in sites located closer to sea level
- The oxygen concentration at the summit is sufficient.  
- However, the altitude affects the body's ability to absorb it.
- If power breathing does not relieve hypoxia - grab an oxygen tank! (some of us did)

Observatory-dotted
summit area

The Subaru Observatory

After the Subaru, we made our way further up the road to watch the sunset.  This was to an area that is
adjacent to the summit – the very tip of the volcano.  An altar can be found there where Hawaiian natives
periodically conduct rituals.

While the gang waited for the sunset, Paul and Noel decide to make a dash for the summit to check out the
view (and lay claim to having done it).  

Are they crazy?!

Almost there...gasp!

Few more steps...Gasp!

After an excruciating climb, they made it to the summit.  The oxygen deprivation, freezing
temperature, the exertion, and loose terrain made for a hard climb.  It was hard to
breath and they had to stop several times.  

At this altitude, you also hallucinate.

The view from the top is incredible.  At sun down, Mauna Kea casts an immense
shadow on the eastern side of the island.  The view is memorable.

We made it!

Sunset from the summit is beautiful.  As with all sunsets, everyone
seems to stare quietly as the sun announces its retirement.  We
witnessed it eventually hide behind the horizon, glancing occasionally
to the unfolding views - Maui peeking through the clouds, the
shimmering ocean, and the lights of the resorts and towns below

At sun down, we made our way back to the ranger station.  This is where the stargazing takes place.  The
station has a few powerful telescopes and provides lessons for astronomer wannabe’s.  The sky was so
clear.  Stars were sprinkled in every corner.  We peeked through the telescopes and found Jupiter and some
galaxy! Judi got out her constellation map and found her favorites.

Unfortunately for Noel, the hike up to the summit got him a good dose of altitude sickness.  He had to cut his
star gazing short and hang out in the truck and was ill for the rest of the evening.  :(

After a long drive back to base, we arrived at the Subaru building.  We took some time to unwind and broke out
the chocolate cake that we lugged around for the entire day!  It was for a late night birthday celebration for
Cindy.

We hope to make the trek to Mauna Kea for sunrise one day to complete the experience!

Aloha!